Prostitutes as Trendsetters: The Emergence of Courtesans
Throughout history, courtesans have held a unique and powerful position in society, distinct from other sex workers. Unlike traditional prostitutes who often lived at the fringe of society, courtesans navigated the highest echelons of society, interacting with kings, philosophers, and artists. They set their influence not just through beauty and charm but through intelligence, education, and wit, setting them apart from conventional sex workers. Courtesans were an important part of the social fabric in ancient Greece and Rome, as well as most places in the Far East and South Asia.
At the time, women had quite a narrow array of possibilities—to be a married woman, a servant or a maid who was close to a slave, or—a prostitute. Courtesans lived opulent, public lives, a stark contrast to married women who were hidden indoors. They have lived in a world of men rather than women, with the autonomy, power, and respect that comes with their status. As honourable women began to realise the degree of freedom and independence of becoming a courtesan, widows, divorcees, and sometimes upper-class women embraced the courtesan lifestyle.
In Ancient Greece, sex work was socially stratified, with three distinct levels of sex workers. Unlike modern perceptions, sex work was legal and regulated, with different levels of status depending on the worker’s education, clientele, skills, and social connections.
Pornai were the lowest tier of prostitutes, women from impoverished backgrounds, those with limited means, slaves, or even those in poor health. They were owned by brothel keepers and performed sex work out of necessity. Their work was viewed as commercial transactions with no social influence and they couldn’t accumulate their wealth.
Auletrides were middle-tier prostitutes who were entertainers. While the sex work was acceptable, performing arts and earning money by displaying your body wasn’t. Women who possessed certain talents—to sing, dance, or play an instrument—were pushed into the sex worker zone, doubling as prostitutes. They were more independent and interacted with higher social circles compared to the pornai.
Hetairai were the highest tier, women who were not just sex workers but also companions and intellectuals. They were known for their education, charm, conversational skills, and wit. Unlike the other two groups, hetairai could build substantial wealth, own property, and gain social influence. They spent time with philosophers, artists, kings, and politicians, making them central figures in cultural and intellectual discussions. Their services extended far beyond sex—they were advisors and muses to the most powerful men and played a key role in elite societies. In a world where most women were confined to domestic roles with little freedom, becoming a hetaira allowed women to live independently, control their wealth, approach education, and engage in intellectual pursuits they were otherwise deprived of. They laid the foundation for what would later become the courtesans of Renaissance Europe and later on. Like hetairai, courtesans in Europe occupied a unique social position—well-educated women who moved among the elite, offering not just physical companionship but also engaging in philosophical, political and artistic conversations, influencing fashion, culture, and politics.
In this series, we’ll explore four women who took control of their lives; and shaped the trends of their time. Phryne, the Athenian it-girl; Veronica Franco, the rebellious Venetian poet; Ninon de l’Enclos; the eternal muse of Parisian salons; and Marie Duplessis, the tragic fashionista of Paris. Each of these women teaches us a lesson about authenticity, personal branding, and embracing the unconventional. By exploring their lives, we see that marginalisation can become a source of power.
Branding takeaway: positioning and perception
Courtesans offer a powerful lesson for modern brands: positioning and perception. These women didn’t just sell companionship—they cultivated a personal brand that went beyond the service itself (sex work), establishing and rebranding themselves as intellectuals, trendsetters, and influencers. For brands today, it’s a reminder that success isn’t only about offering a product or service—it’s about how they are perceived beyond their offerings.
Positioning: Courtesans were able to rise above societal expectations by positioning themselves as cultural leaders. In the same way, brands should find ways to differentiate themselves from competitors by leveraging their unique strengths and values. Don’t just fulfil current demands—create new ones.
Perception and Influence: Courtesans, though marginalised by societal standards, were able to shape the discourse of their time. They have woven their influence by positioning themselves as essential companions to intellectual thought, free thinkers, unburdened by the constraints of their gender and marital status. They were socially free, which gave them the opportunity to radiate their authenticity without having a second thought. Brands can learn to own their uniqueness, crafting a strong narrative that resonates with both elite and mainstream audiences.